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It is served in paper buckets in American suburbs, rice bowls in Chinese malls, shawarma shops in the Gulf, peri-peri restaurants in Britain, biryanis in India and supermarket sandwiches around the world. It can be fried, roasted, grilled, shredded, stewed, minced, nuggeted or reconstituted into something only distantly recognisable as a bird.
Few foods travel as smoothly through the modern economy as chicken.
A meat that for much of the 20th century was an expensive minority choice has in the 21st become its favourite protein — and the rise of the chicken is speeding up, explains the FT's Judith Evans.
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